Kitchen Notes
Why Browning Works
The Maillard reaction, caramelisation, and the reason a wet pan will never give you either. Three conditions, and how to hit all three.
March 11, 2026
Almost everything described as “developing flavour” is one of two chemical processes, and they have different requirements.
Two reactions, often confused
Caramelisation is sugar decomposing under heat — no other ingredient required. It starts around 160 °C for sucrose and produces the flavours you associate with caramel, toffee and dark-roasted things.
The Maillard reaction is a reaction between amino acids and reducing sugars. It needs both, it runs meaningfully from about 140 °C, and it produces hundreds of compounds rather than a handful — which is why a seared steak smells complicated and caramel smells like caramel.
Most browning food is doing both at once. Bread crust, roast onions and seared meat all involve sugars and proteins in the same place.
The three conditions
Heat above about 140 °C. This is the one people miss, because water boiling in the pan holds the surface at 100 °C. Nothing browns until the water has gone.
A dry surface. Follows from the above. Patting meat dry is not fussiness; it is the difference between five minutes of evaporation and five minutes of browning.
Room in the pan. Crowded food releases moisture faster than the pan can drive it off, and the surface temperature crashes. Two batches with space beat one batch without, every time, and take less total time because nothing has to recover.
Practical consequences
- Salt after searing, or hours before. Salt on the surface pulls out moisture. Ten minutes before cooking is exactly the wrong moment.
- A heavy pan is not a luxury. Thermal mass is what stops the surface temperature collapsing when cold food hits it.
- Deglaze. The brown film on the pan — the fond — is the reaction product. Any liquid will dissolve it back into the dish, and a pan you soaked in the sink is flavour you threw away.
- A little sugar helps a stubborn ingredient. Vegetables low in reducing sugars brown slowly; a pinch of sugar or a spoonful of honey shifts the balance.
- Alkalinity accelerates it. A pinch of bicarbonate of soda in onions cuts caramelising time substantially. Too much and you get soapiness and mush — a quarter teaspoon per kilogram is plenty.
When not to brown
Not every dish wants it. A delicate stock, a white sauce, a poached fish are all built on the absence of these reactions, and browning the aromatics for them muddies the result. Browning is a choice, not an upgrade.