Bagels

A stiff, low-hydration dough held overnight in the fridge, boiled in malted alkaline water and baked hot for a shiny, chewy skin.

Prep
35m
Cook
22m
Waiting
13h 15m
Total
14h 12m
Serves
8 bagels
Effort
Moderate
Scale
8 bagels
Units

Method

Tap a step number to mark it done. Tap an ingredient once for got it, twice for need it.

Bagels — recipe grid
500 g Knead the stiff dough hard for 10 minutes, then rest 1 hour 1h 10m It will fight you. That is the point of a 52 per cent hydration dough. Shape into rings and retard uncovered overnight 12h 15m Poke a hole and stretch it to 4 cm. It closes by half in the oven. Boil 45 seconds a side, lift out, and press into the seeds while wet 10m Longer boiling means a thicker, chewier skin and less oven rise. Bake at 220°C / 425°F for 20 minutes until deep bronze 20m Turn the tray once. The far side of most ovens colours faster.
260 g
15 g
5 g
10 g
2 tbsp
1 tsp
4 tbsp
for the tray
Read left to right: ingredients merge into steps, and the rightmost cell is the last thing you do. Steps account for 13h 55m of hands-on and cooking time.
  1. Knead the stiff dough hard for 10 minutes, then rest 1 hour

    1h 10m
    • strong white bread flour 500 g
    • water 260 g
    • barley malt syrup 15 g
    • instant yeast 5 g
    • fine salt 10 g

    It will fight you. That is the point of a 52 per cent hydration dough.

  2. Shape into rings and retard uncovered overnight

    12h 15m
    • from 1 Knead the stiff dough hard for 10 minutes, then rest 1 hour

    Poke a hole and stretch it to 4 cm. It closes by half in the oven.

  3. Boil 45 seconds a side, lift out, and press into the seeds while wet

    10m
    • from 2 Shape into rings and retard uncovered overnight
    • barley malt syrup 2 tbsp
    • bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp
    • sesame and poppy seeds 4 tbsp

    Longer boiling means a thicker, chewier skin and less oven rise.

  4. Bake at 220°C / 425°F for 20 minutes until deep bronze

    20m
    • from 3 Boil 45 seconds a side, lift out, and press into the seeds while wet
    • fine semolina (optional) for the tray

    Turn the tray once. The far side of most ovens colours faster.

Why boiling changes everything

Thirty seconds in near-boiling water gelatinises the starch on the outside of the ring before the oven can dry it. That gel sets into the glossy, slightly leathery skin a bagel is judged on, and it also seals the surface so the loaf can only expand so far — hence the dense, chewy crumb rather than an open one. The alkaline water accelerates Maillard browning, and the malt syrup supplies sugars for it to work on.

Notes

  • Retarding uncovered dries the surface slightly, which helps the skin set cleanly in the pot.
  • Test one bagel by dropping it in cold water. If it floats within ten seconds it is proved enough.
  • Boil in batches of two or three. Crowding drops the water temperature and the skins go slack.

Try butter, 30 minutes, braise, or an ingredient you need to use up.