side
Agedashi Tofu
Tofu dusted in potato starch, fried until the shell crackles, and sat in warm dashi broth so you eat it before it softens.
- Time
- 1h 5m
- Serves
- 4 as a starter
- Effort
- Moderate
165 entries filed under this tag.
side
Tofu dusted in potato starch, fried until the shell crackles, and sat in warm dashi broth so you eat it before it softens.
pasta
The ten-minute pantry dinner. Everything depends on not letting the garlic go past gold.
indian
A dry curry, not a gravy. Roast the cauliflower separately so it browns instead of steaming into mush.
indian
Potatoes simmered in a tomato masala until the gravy clings, with peas thrown in late so they stay green and sweet.
dessert
Bramleys tossed with a little cornflour so the juices thicken instead of flooding, under a lumpy oat topping that is never pressed down.
indian
Stuffed flatbread. The filling must be dry and completely cool, or it tears the dough on the first roll.
baking
A free-form tart that forgives bad pastry work. Ground almonds under the fruit keep the base from going soft.
indian
Mixed vegetables cut into batons, barely steamed, then bound with coarse coconut and sour curd. Raw coconut oil goes in at the end.
side
Aubergines burnt black over a live flame, drained hard, then folded with tahini and lemon. Smoke and texture, not a smooth purée.
baking
A stiff, low-hydration dough held overnight in the fridge, boiled in malted alkaline water and baked hot for a shiny, chewy skin.
dessert
A low-and-slow water-bath bake, cooled in the switched-off oven and chilled overnight so it slices clean and cracks never appear.
indian
Aubergines charred whole over a flame until they collapse, then mashed into a smoky masala. The char is the dish.
baking
The blacker the bananas the better. Melted butter, one bowl, and a batter you deliberately undermix.
weeknight
Lemongrass tofu in a shatteringly thin baguette, with pickled carrot and daikon, cucumber, chilli and a great deal of coriander.
technique
A ratio rather than a recipe. Learn the three-to-one and the mustard trick and you will never buy salad dressing again.
indian
Okra fried dry and hard before anything wet touches it. That single rule is what keeps it from going slimy.
weeknight
Rice under a wheel of separately seasoned vegetables, a fried egg, and gochujang sauce stirred through at the table.
baking
A lean, fat-free almond dough baked as logs, sliced warm and dried a second time until they snap rather than bend.
indian
Rice, toor dal and vegetables cooked past the point of separateness, held together by a roasted masala and finished with ghee-fried cashews.
weeknight
The beans dried out in the oven before mashing, which is the difference between a burger and a bean paste in a bun.
breakfast
A high blast of heat first for the domed top, then down to finish. Frozen berries, tossed in flour so they stay put.
soup
Grated beetroot sweated with the aromatics, cabbage in late, and vinegar at the very end to hold the colour.
dessert
Day-old bread buttered, layered with tea-soaked sultanas and left to drink a vanilla custard for half an hour before it goes in the water bath.
side
Sliced summer vegetables baked slowly in a great deal of olive oil until the edges blacken and everything collapses together.
baking
An enriched dough kneaded to full gluten before a single gram of butter goes in, chilled overnight, and baked as a row of joined balls.
baking
Browning the butter first trades some chew for a lot of flavour. The dough rests overnight, which is where most of the improvement actually comes from.
baking
Melted chocolate rather than cocoa, whipped eggs for the paper-thin crust, and pulled from the oven while the middle still wobbles.
breakfast
Lumpy batter, a rested ten minutes, and a pan that is cooler than you think. Most bad pancakes are overmixed, overheated, or both.
indian
A dry Kerala stir-fry of finely shredded cabbage with coconut. Fifteen minutes, and the coconut goes in raw at the end.
side
Turkish yoghurt with cucumber, garlic and dried mint, loosened with cold water until you can drink it or spoon it.
baking
An oil-based traybake with coarsely grated carrot, spiced heavily enough to stand up to the cream cheese frosting.
side
The florets boiled briefly and drained hard, under a mustard-sharp sauce built on a properly cooked roux.
baking
An egg-rich, oil-based plaited loaf that stays soft for days. Two thin coats of yolk glaze give the lacquered finish.
pasta
Four ingredients and one failure mode. The trick is temperature control — the cheese must never meet heat it can't handle.
weeknight
Tinned chickpeas, one onion cooked far longer than feels reasonable, and whole spices bloomed in fat. Dinner in forty minutes, most of it unattended.
indian
Two ingredients and a hot dry pan. The puff comes from steam, and it only happens if the dough is soft and properly rested.
dessert
Chocolate, eggs and a little sugar. No cream, no gelatin — the structure comes entirely from beaten whites.
baking
An enriched dough chilled overnight, rolled thin with a cocoa butter paste, twisted so the layers show, and soaked in syrup straight from the oven.
indian
Dark, sour chickpeas cooked with tea, and leavened bread that balloons in hot oil. A weekend project that feeds people properly.
baking
An enriched dough proved overnight in the fridge, so the baking happens while you are awake.
indian
Fresh coconut, roasted gram and a green chilli, ground loose. Five minutes, and it goes with almost everything from a South Indian kitchen.
breakfast
One cup of rice, twelve of stock, and an hour of low heat until the grains dissolve. The toppings are the meal; the base is a canvas.
baking
Buttermilk batter poured into a smoking cast-iron skillet, which fries the base into a crust before the oven gets to work.
dessert
A baked custard in a water bath, chilled hard, then blowtorched at the last minute. The contrast only lasts minutes.
salad
Salt the cabbage, wring it out, then dress it. Twenty extra minutes buys you a slaw that is still crisp an hour later.
indian
Overcooked rice mashed with milk, cooled, then stirred through thick curd and tempered. The last thing eaten in a South Indian meal.
dessert
A deep, thin-walled pastry case filled at the oven shelf with a nine-yolk cream custard, baked low and never refrigerated.
indian
Urad dal fritters soaked soft in warm water, squeezed dry and drowned in sweetened curd with two chutneys and a lot of cumin.
indian
Black lentils soaked overnight and simmered for hours until they turn glossy. Butter and cream at the end, not the start.
indian
Soft yellow lentils finished with a tempering of spices bloomed in ghee, poured over at the table.
weeknight
A sauce built in the bottom of the bowl — sesame paste, chilli oil, black vinegar — with hot noodles dropped straight onto it and tossed at the table.
side
Vine leaves rolled around herby rice and simmered under a plate. Undercooked rice going in is what makes them tight going out.
weeknight
Soaked raw chickpeas, never cooked ones, ground with herbs and fried hard. The starch sets in the oil and holds the whole thing together.
salad
Chopped salad built around fried pita and sumac. The bread goes in at the table so it is still crisp when you eat it.
indian
A steamed chickpea-flour sponge, sour with lemon and aerated in the last ten seconds, then flooded with a sweet mustard-seed tempering.
baking
Butter, golden syrup and brown sugar melted together and stirred through oats, baked until the edges darken and left to set hard in the tin.
salad
Green wheat with a smoky, chewy bite, dressed while still warm so the grain drinks the lemon rather than sitting in it.
soup
Ninety minutes of onions and about six of everything else. There is no shortcut and the shortcut versions taste like it.
breakfast
Stale bread, a long soak, and a pan cool enough that the custard sets before the outside burns.
weeknight
Cold day-old rice, a screaming pan, and everything prepped before you start. The whole cook is four minutes.
breakfast
Started on the hob, finished under the grill, pulled while the centre is still soft. Ricotta keeps it from going rubbery.
breakfast
Warm fava beans crushed in their own liquid with cumin, lemon and a lot of olive oil. Breakfast that holds you until evening.
salad
Blanched and raw vegetables, egg and fried tofu under a thick peanut sauce loosened with tamarind and kecap manis.
indian
Gram flour dumplings boiled, sliced and dropped into a yoghurt gravy. A Rajasthani dish designed around having no fresh vegetables at all.
soup
Ripe tomatoes macerated in salt and sherry vinegar, blended with soaked bread and emulsified with a lot of good oil.
side
Big white beans baked in tomato and olive oil until the sauce reduces to a jammy skin and the beans turn creamy.
technique
Baked potatoes, riced hot, and the least flour you can get away with. Kneading is the enemy here, not the technique.
breakfast
One syrup, one fat, and a low oven. Press it flat and leave it alone if you want clusters.
side
Thin potato slices simmered in cream before they go anywhere near the oven. No cheese, no stock, nothing to hide behind.
side
Dried chickpeas cooked soft with bicarbonate of soda, then whipped with tahini and ice water until the purée mounds like buttercream.
indian
Steamed cakes from the same fermented family as dosa, but ground thicker and steamed rather than griddled.
soup
Moroccan tomato, lentil and chickpea soup thickened at the end with a flour slurry that turns it velvety rather than merely thick.
side
Whole aubergines split, stuffed with sweet onion and tomato, and braised in olive oil until they can be cut with a spoon.
side
Sweet potato noodles, springy and translucent, tossed with vegetables cooked one at a time and a soy-sesame dressing.
indian
Basmati with cumin bloomed in ghee. The absorption method, a fixed ratio, and a lid you do not lift.
indian
Rice and moong dal cooked together to a soft, savoury porridge. The dish people make when they are ill, and eat when they are not.
indian
A yoghurt and gram flour sauce simmered for an hour, with onion fritters dropped in at the end. The flour is what stops the yoghurt splitting.
soup
Sour, overripe kimchi fried in sesame oil before any liquid goes near it, then simmered hard with tofu into a scarlet stew.
weeknight
Egypt's stacked plate of rice, lentils and macaroni under a sharp tomato sauce, garlic vinegar and a mountain of fried onions.
soup
A coconut curry noodle soup with a pounded rempah, tofu puffs that soak up broth like sponges, and a spoonful of chilli on top.
technique
Yoghurt salted and hung until it turns into something between cream cheese and clotted cream. One ingredient, one day, no cooking.
soup
Leeks sweated under a lid until they give up their sugar, then potato and stock. Three ingredients, no browning anywhere.
baking
The drizzle goes on hot, so it soaks in rather than sitting on top. Zest in the sugar, not the batter.
indian
Cold rice folded through a tempering of dal, peanuts and curry leaves, with the lemon squeezed in off the heat so it stays sharp.
dessert
A thin sweet pastry shell sealed with egg white, filled with a strained lemon cream and baked barely warm so it sets glassy.
pasta
A béchamel base, cheese off the heat, and pasta pulled early because it keeps cooking in the oven.
baking
A brown-butter batter rested cold for two hours, then piped into a buttered tin and baked hot so each shell rises with a hump.
indian
Paneer and potato dumplings in a smooth cashew gravy. Bind them properly and fry them hot, or they disintegrate in the oil.
indian
Maize flour bread with no gluten to hold it together, patted flat between wet palms and cooked slowly so it never cracks.
weeknight
Silken tofu in a red, numbing sauce built on fermented chilli bean paste. Minced mushrooms do the job the pork usually does.
indian
A fermented rice and lentil batter spread thin on a hot griddle, wrapped around spiced potato. The fermentation takes a day and does all the work.
indian
Peas and paneer in a straightforward onion-tomato gravy. A weeknight dish that takes half an hour and no special ingredients.
pasta
Four ingredients, forty minutes, and no browning at all. The point is bright tomato, not deep savoury.
technique
One yolk holds a surprising amount of oil, as long as you add it slowly enough. Five minutes, and it fixes if it breaks.
indian
Fenugreek leaves and peas in a pale cashew and onion gravy, kept white on purpose and finished with cream off the heat.
indian
Sprouted moth beans under a slick of red kat, buried in fried farsan and eaten with buttered pav before the topping goes soft.
soup
A soffritto, whatever vegetables you have, and a parmesan rind in the pot. The pasta is cooked separately for a reason.
soup
Kombu and dried shiitake steeped, never boiled, then miso whisked in off the heat. Twenty minutes, mostly waiting.
side
Charred red peppers pounded with walnuts, breadcrumbs and pomegranate molasses into a rough, sweet-sour paste.
weeknight
Lentils and rice under a heap of onions fried almost to the point of burning. The onions are the seasoning, so give them the time.
weeknight
Twenty minutes of stirring you cannot skip, and one measurement — the rice must stay just barely covered — that decides the whole thing.
weeknight
Mushrooms browned hard in two batches, not steamed in one crowded pan. The soured cream goes in off the heat.
baking
A duxelles cooked until it squeaks, roasted portobellos at the core, and pastry that goes into a hot oven cold.
weeknight
Yesterday's rice fried with a pounded chilli-shallot base and darkened with kecap manis, a fried egg landing on top.
baking
Twelve hours of time doing the work of ten minutes of kneading, baked in a lidded pot that traps its own steam.
weeknight
A thick cabbage pancake bound with grated yam batter, griddled slowly and finished with sauce, mayonnaise and a snow of aonori.
baking
A wet dough, a cold night in the fridge, and almost no kneading. The oven does the work; you mostly need to be patient in advance.
breakfast
No cooking at all. The ratio is the recipe, and the chia seeds are what stop it being soup.
weeknight
A thin layer of rice, stock poured once, and then nothing touches it. The crust on the bottom is the whole reward.
weeknight
Wide rice noodles charred in a dry-hot pan with Chinese broccoli, egg and dark soy. Four minutes of cooking, all of it fast.
indian
Spinach blanched and shocked so it stays green, blitzed coarse, and paneer added at the very end.
indian
A smooth cashew and tomato gravy, strained for silkiness. Sweet, mild and finished with crushed fenugreek leaves.
indian
Paneer in a thick hung-curd marinade, cooked fast and close to the heat so the outside blackens before the inside turns rubbery.
salad
Stale bread salad. Salt the tomatoes first and use the juice they give up as most of the dressing.
dessert
A meringue with cornflour and vinegar stirred through, baked low and left in the cooling oven so the shell crisps over a marshmallow middle.
indian
Vegetables cooked to collapse, mashed on the griddle with butter and spice, and served with soft rolls fried in the same pan.
indian
A green moong crepe from Andhra, ground from soaked beans rather than fermented, with raw onion pressed into the wet side.
pasta
Raw sauce, so every ingredient shows. Keep the basil cold and bruise it rather than shredding it.
technique
A hot-water dough that rolls out thin without fighting back, filled with potato, curd cheese and deeply browned onion.
baking
Three days in the fridge, a hot stone, and dough shaped by hand so the rim keeps its air.
indian
Flattened rice rinsed rather than soaked, then warmed through with mustard seeds, onion and turmeric. Ten minutes from start to plate.
side
Coarse polenta, forty-five minutes at a bare blip, and butter and cheese beaten in at the very end. Instant is a different food.
technique
Ten minutes of work and thirty of waiting. They turn bright pink on their own and improve almost anything savoury.
baking
A properly blind-baked shell, a custard baked low until it still wobbles, and leeks sweated down to almost nothing.
indian
Kidney beans in a thick onion and tomato gravy. Cook the masala until the oil separates, then let the beans thicken it themselves.
braise
Each vegetable cooked on its own terms, then folded together at the end. Cooked all in one pan it becomes a grey stew.
indian
A thin, sour, peppery broth. Never let it boil once the tamarind and dal water are in — it goes cloudy and dull.
soup
Thirty minutes from cupboard to bowl. Lentils need no soaking and thicken the soup themselves.
dessert
Two hours at 140°C in a shallow dish, which is what builds the brown skin and gives the grains time to collapse into the milk.
indian
Tapioca pearls soaked just enough to hydrate but not enough to dissolve, tossed with crushed peanuts, potato and green chilli.
indian
Mustard greens cooked down for over an hour, mashed rather than blended, thickened with maize flour and finished with a ghee tadka.
indian
A tamarind and lentil stew with mixed vegetables, finished with a mustard seed tempering. The tamarind goes in after the dal, not with it.
technique
A hot-water dough rolled thin, painted with oil paste, coiled and flattened. The layers come from the coil, not the rolling.
baking
Cold butter, a barely-mixed dough, and a straight cut down. Twelve minutes from bowl to oven.
salad
Cold noodles in a sesame-and-black-vinegar dressing that stays emulsified because of the noodle water you saved.
breakfast
A thick pepper and tomato base with eggs poached in wells. The sauce has to be reduced before the eggs go in, or you end up with soup.
baking
Three ingredients in a fixed ratio, worked as little as possible and baked pale.
baking
A single thin chickpea pancake baked in a screaming-hot pan until the edges blister black and the middle stays custardy.
baking
Four ingredients, thirty seconds of mixing and no proving. The loaf is in the oven before a yeasted dough has finished its first stir.
baking
A firm, lightly buttered dough dipped in simmering soda water before baking, which is what gives the mahogany skin and the tang.
breakfast
Low heat, constant movement, and off the pan while they still look slightly underdone.
baking
A single-loaf schedule built around one long bulk ferment and an overnight retard, baked cold from the fridge in a preheated pot.
baking
Spinach salted and wrung dry, bound with feta and egg, layered between buttered filo. The wringing is the whole recipe.
side
Ninety seconds of actual cooking. The trick is a dry pan, dry greens, and not stirring as much as you think.
weeknight
Halved rather than hollowed, filled with underdone rice that finishes in the oven, and roasted uncovered until the edges char.
salad
A parsley salad with bulgur in it, not the other way round. The grain hydrates in tomato juice and lemon rather than water.
indian
Soft fenugreek flatbreads with gram flour worked into the dough. They stay pliable for days, which is why they travel.
weeknight
Paste pounded from scratch and cracked in coconut cream until the oil splits out. That one step is the difference between fragrant and flat.
salad
Crumbled tofu browned hard, dressed with lime and toasted rice powder, and eaten cold from lettuce leaves with a lot of herbs.
dessert
No baking at all. A whipped mascarpone cream, a fast dip in coffee, and a full night in the fridge.
soup
A hot-and-sour mushroom broth built on bruised lemongrass, galangal and lime leaf, with the lime juice going in only at the very end.
soup
Roast the tomatoes rather than simmering them. Concentration and browning do what cream is usually asked to cover up.
technique
Potatoes poached soft in olive oil, steeped in beaten egg, then set slowly so the middle stays just short of firm.
indian
Winter vegetables stuffed with green masala and steamed under a lid with fried fenugreek dumplings. Nothing is stirred from start to finish.
indian
Semolina toasted dry, then hydrated with boiling water. Fifteen minutes, and the toasting is what keeps it from turning to paste.
dessert
A cooked custard base, aged overnight, then churned. The ageing step is the one everyone skips and the one that matters.
indian
A spiced potato ball in a gram-flour jacket, jammed into a soft roll with dry garlic chutney. Eat it standing up.
indian
Mixed vegetables in a fierce dark gravy built on coconut and whole spices roasted until they smoke. Not a mild dish, and not pretending to be.
indian
Rice parboiled separately, layered over a spiced vegetable base, and steamed sealed so the two finish together.
side
Cabbage salted and wrung out, mushrooms browned dry, then pleated and cooked by the fry-steam-fry method that gives one crisp face.
weeknight
Dried beans, whole spices toasted and ground, and a long uncovered simmer. Cocoa and cinnamon do the work meat usually does.
baking
Equal weights of butter, sugar, egg and flour, creamed properly and baked in two tins so neither layer needs levelling.
braise
Dried cannellini cooked slowly in a lot of olive oil and their own broth, with a ladleful mashed back in for body.
braise
Lentils simmered dry with cinnamon, roasted aubergine instead of fried, and a thick béchamel enriched with yolks so it browns properly.
side
Moroccan aubergine and tomato cooked right down to a dark, garlicky jam. It is finished when a spoon leaves a clean trail.