Vegetarian Moussaka

• butter 60 g
• plain flour 60 g
• whole milk 700 ml
• egg yolks 2
• kefalotyri 60 g
• nutmeg a generous scrape
• salt 1 tsp

Thicker than you would pour over anything. The yolks are what let it puff and brown rather than just melt.

• olive oil 3 tbsp
• onions 2
• garlic 4 cloves
• brown or Puy lentils 250 g
• tinned tomatoes 1 tin
• red wine 150 ml
• cinnamon stick 1
• dried oregano 2 tsp
• bay leaves 2
• vegetable stock 500 ml
• salt 2 tsp

Dry is the target. A wet filling turns the whole dish into a lake under the topping.

• aubergines 3
• olive oil 6 tbsp
• salt 1 1/2 tsp

Roasting uses a fraction of the oil frying does and gives the same collapse.

• from 1 Make a thick béchamel and beat in the yolks off the heat
• from 2 Simmer the lentil ragù until no liquid pools when you drag a spoon through
• from 3 Roast the aubergine slices at 220°C / 425°F until browned and floppy

The béchamel goes on last and only on top. Layered through, it never sets.

• from 4 Layer aubergine, lentils, aubergine, then all the béchamel

• from 5 Bake at 180°C / 350°F until the top is set and bronzed

Cut hot and the layers slide. The starch and egg need time to firm.

• Greek yogurt 500 g
• eggs 3
• plain flour 2 tbsp
• hard cheese 60 g
• nutmeg a scrape
• salt 1 tsp

Greek yogurt has enough protein to set like a custard once the eggs and flour go in.

• olive oil 2 tbsp
• onions 2
• garlic 4 cloves
• tinned brown lentils 2 tins
• tinned tomatoes 1 tin
• ground cinnamon 1 tsp
• dried oregano 2 tsp
• salt 2 tsp

• aubergines 3
• olive oil 5 tbsp

• from 1 Whisk the topping until smooth
• from 2 Simmer tinned lentils with the tomatoes and spices until thick
• from 3 Grill the aubergine slices until soft and marked

• from 4 Layer aubergine and lentils, then pour the yogurt topping over