Hummus

Dried chickpeas cooked soft with bicarbonate of soda, then whipped with tahini and ice water until the purée mounds like buttercream.

Prep
20m
Cook
1h 10m
Waiting
12h
Total
13h 30m
Serves
6
Effort
Moderate
Scale
6
Units

Method

Tap a step number to mark it done. Tap an ingredient once for got it, twice for need it.

Hummus — recipe grid
200 g Blend the tahini until it seizes, then thins to a pale cream 5m The seizing is normal — water hitting the sesame paste. Keep going and it comes back looser and lighter. Whip everything together, then rest 20 minutes before serving 25m It thickens as it sits. Loosen with more ice water just before it goes on the plate.
4 tbsp
1 clove
4 tbsp
1 1/2 tsp
1/2 tsp
250 g Soak overnight in plenty of cold water 12h Simmer until the chickpeas crush to nothing between two fingers 1h Skim the loose skins and the grey foam off the top as they rise.
1 tsp
1/2 tsp
3 tbsp
a pinch
Read left to right: ingredients merge into steps, and the rightmost cell is the last thing you do. Steps account for 13h 30m of hands-on and cooking time.
  1. Blend the tahini until it seizes, then thins to a pale cream

    5m
    • tahini 200 g
    • lemon juice 4 tbsp
    • garlic 1 clove
    • ice water 4 tbsp
    • fine salt 1 1/2 tsp
    • ground cumin 1/2 tsp

    The seizing is normal — water hitting the sesame paste. Keep going and it comes back looser and lighter.

  2. Soak overnight in plenty of cold water

    12h
    • dried chickpeas 250 g
    • bicarbonate of soda 1 tsp
  3. Simmer until the chickpeas crush to nothing between two fingers

    1h
    • from 2 Soak overnight in plenty of cold water
    • bicarbonate of soda 1/2 tsp

    Skim the loose skins and the grey foam off the top as they rise.

  4. Whip everything together, then rest 20 minutes before serving

    25m
    • from 1 Blend the tahini until it seizes, then thins to a pale cream
    • from 3 Simmer until the chickpeas crush to nothing between two fingers
    • extra virgin olive oil 3 tbsp
    • sumac (optional) a pinch

    It thickens as it sits. Loosen with more ice water just before it goes on the plate.

What the bicarbonate does

Raising the pH of the soaking and cooking water breaks down pectin in the cell walls far faster than plain water can, and it loosens the seed coat so the skins slip off and float. Chickpeas that would need two hours collapse in one, and skinless chickpeas are the whole difference between grainy and silky.

The ice water matters for a different reason. A processor running for two minutes heats the tahini, and warm sesame paste turns thick and slightly bitter. Cold water holds the temperature down while the blade beats air in, which is what turns the purée pale.

Notes

  • Season while the chickpeas are still warm — they take up salt as they cool.
  • Keep a cup of the cooking liquid. It loosens leftovers better than water.
  • Fridge-cold hummus tastes of nothing. Half an hour on the counter first.

Try butter, 30 minutes, braise, or an ingredient you need to use up.