side
Agedashi Tofu
Tofu dusted in potato starch, fried until the shell crackles, and sat in warm dashi broth so you eat it before it softens.
- Time
- 1h 5m
- Serves
- 4 as a starter
- Effort
- Moderate
69 entries filed under this tag.
side
Tofu dusted in potato starch, fried until the shell crackles, and sat in warm dashi broth so you eat it before it softens.
pasta
The ten-minute pantry dinner. Everything depends on not letting the garlic go past gold.
indian
A dry curry, not a gravy. Roast the cauliflower separately so it browns instead of steaming into mush.
indian
Potatoes simmered in a tomato masala until the gravy clings, with peas thrown in late so they stay green and sweet.
side
Aubergines burnt black over a live flame, drained hard, then folded with tahini and lemon. Smoke and texture, not a smooth purée.
baking
A stiff, low-hydration dough held overnight in the fridge, boiled in malted alkaline water and baked hot for a shiny, chewy skin.
indian
Aubergines charred whole over a flame until they collapse, then mashed into a smoky masala. The char is the dish.
indian
Okra fried dry and hard before anything wet touches it. That single rule is what keeps it from going slimy.
side
Sliced summer vegetables baked slowly in a great deal of olive oil until the edges blacken and everything collapses together.
indian
A dry Kerala stir-fry of finely shredded cabbage with coconut. Fifteen minutes, and the coconut goes in raw at the end.
weeknight
Tinned chickpeas, one onion cooked far longer than feels reasonable, and whole spices bloomed in fat. Dinner in forty minutes, most of it unattended.
indian
Two ingredients and a hot dry pan. The puff comes from steam, and it only happens if the dough is soft and properly rested.
indian
Fresh coconut, roasted gram and a green chilli, ground loose. Five minutes, and it goes with almost everything from a South Indian kitchen.
breakfast
One cup of rice, twelve of stock, and an hour of low heat until the grains dissolve. The toppings are the meal; the base is a canvas.
weeknight
A sauce built in the bottom of the bowl — sesame paste, chilli oil, black vinegar — with hot noodles dropped straight onto it and tossed at the table.
side
Vine leaves rolled around herby rice and simmered under a plate. Undercooked rice going in is what makes them tight going out.
weeknight
Soaked raw chickpeas, never cooked ones, ground with herbs and fried hard. The starch sets in the oil and holds the whole thing together.
salad
Chopped salad built around fried pita and sumac. The bread goes in at the table so it is still crisp when you eat it.
indian
A steamed chickpea-flour sponge, sour with lemon and aerated in the last ten seconds, then flooded with a sweet mustard-seed tempering.
salad
Green wheat with a smoky, chewy bite, dressed while still warm so the grain drinks the lemon rather than sitting in it.
breakfast
Warm fava beans crushed in their own liquid with cumin, lemon and a lot of olive oil. Breakfast that holds you until evening.
soup
Ripe tomatoes macerated in salt and sherry vinegar, blended with soaked bread and emulsified with a lot of good oil.
side
Big white beans baked in tomato and olive oil until the sauce reduces to a jammy skin and the beans turn creamy.
breakfast
One syrup, one fat, and a low oven. Press it flat and leave it alone if you want clusters.
side
Dried chickpeas cooked soft with bicarbonate of soda, then whipped with tahini and ice water until the purée mounds like buttercream.
indian
Steamed cakes from the same fermented family as dosa, but ground thicker and steamed rather than griddled.
soup
Moroccan tomato, lentil and chickpea soup thickened at the end with a flour slurry that turns it velvety rather than merely thick.
side
Whole aubergines split, stuffed with sweet onion and tomato, and braised in olive oil until they can be cut with a spoon.
side
Sweet potato noodles, springy and translucent, tossed with vegetables cooked one at a time and a soy-sesame dressing.
soup
Sour, overripe kimchi fried in sesame oil before any liquid goes near it, then simmered hard with tofu into a scarlet stew.
weeknight
Egypt's stacked plate of rice, lentils and macaroni under a sharp tomato sauce, garlic vinegar and a mountain of fried onions.
soup
A coconut curry noodle soup with a pounded rempah, tofu puffs that soak up broth like sponges, and a spoonful of chilli on top.
indian
Cold rice folded through a tempering of dal, peanuts and curry leaves, with the lemon squeezed in off the heat so it stays sharp.
weeknight
Silken tofu in a red, numbing sauce built on fermented chilli bean paste. Minced mushrooms do the job the pork usually does.
indian
A fermented rice and lentil batter spread thin on a hot griddle, wrapped around spiced potato. The fermentation takes a day and does all the work.
pasta
Four ingredients, forty minutes, and no browning at all. The point is bright tomato, not deep savoury.
soup
Kombu and dried shiitake steeped, never boiled, then miso whisked in off the heat. Twenty minutes, mostly waiting.
side
Charred red peppers pounded with walnuts, breadcrumbs and pomegranate molasses into a rough, sweet-sour paste.
weeknight
Lentils and rice under a heap of onions fried almost to the point of burning. The onions are the seasoning, so give them the time.
baking
Twelve hours of time doing the work of ten minutes of kneading, baked in a lidded pot that traps its own steam.
breakfast
No cooking at all. The ratio is the recipe, and the chia seeds are what stop it being soup.
weeknight
A thin layer of rice, stock poured once, and then nothing touches it. The crust on the bottom is the whole reward.
salad
Stale bread salad. Salt the tomatoes first and use the juice they give up as most of the dressing.
indian
A green moong crepe from Andhra, ground from soaked beans rather than fermented, with raw onion pressed into the wet side.
baking
Three days in the fridge, a hot stone, and dough shaped by hand so the rim keeps its air.
indian
Flattened rice rinsed rather than soaked, then warmed through with mustard seeds, onion and turmeric. Ten minutes from start to plate.
technique
Ten minutes of work and thirty of waiting. They turn bright pink on their own and improve almost anything savoury.
indian
Kidney beans in a thick onion and tomato gravy. Cook the masala until the oil separates, then let the beans thicken it themselves.
braise
Each vegetable cooked on its own terms, then folded together at the end. Cooked all in one pan it becomes a grey stew.
indian
A thin, sour, peppery broth. Never let it boil once the tamarind and dal water are in — it goes cloudy and dull.
soup
Thirty minutes from cupboard to bowl. Lentils need no soaking and thicken the soup themselves.
indian
A tamarind and lentil stew with mixed vegetables, finished with a mustard seed tempering. The tamarind goes in after the dal, not with it.
technique
A hot-water dough rolled thin, painted with oil paste, coiled and flattened. The layers come from the coil, not the rolling.
salad
Cold noodles in a sesame-and-black-vinegar dressing that stays emulsified because of the noodle water you saved.
baking
A single thin chickpea pancake baked in a screaming-hot pan until the edges blister black and the middle stays custardy.
baking
A single-loaf schedule built around one long bulk ferment and an overnight retard, baked cold from the fridge in a preheated pot.
side
Ninety seconds of actual cooking. The trick is a dry pan, dry greens, and not stirring as much as you think.
salad
A parsley salad with bulgur in it, not the other way round. The grain hydrates in tomato juice and lemon rather than water.
indian
Soft fenugreek flatbreads with gram flour worked into the dough. They stay pliable for days, which is why they travel.
weeknight
Paste pounded from scratch and cracked in coconut cream until the oil splits out. That one step is the difference between fragrant and flat.
salad
Crumbled tofu browned hard, dressed with lime and toasted rice powder, and eaten cold from lettuce leaves with a lot of herbs.
soup
A hot-and-sour mushroom broth built on bruised lemongrass, galangal and lime leaf, with the lime juice going in only at the very end.
soup
Roast the tomatoes rather than simmering them. Concentration and browning do what cream is usually asked to cover up.
indian
Winter vegetables stuffed with green masala and steamed under a lid with fried fenugreek dumplings. Nothing is stirred from start to finish.
indian
Mixed vegetables in a fierce dark gravy built on coconut and whole spices roasted until they smoke. Not a mild dish, and not pretending to be.
side
Cabbage salted and wrung out, mushrooms browned dry, then pleated and cooked by the fry-steam-fry method that gives one crisp face.
weeknight
Dried beans, whole spices toasted and ground, and a long uncovered simmer. Cocoa and cinnamon do the work meat usually does.
braise
Dried cannellini cooked slowly in a lot of olive oil and their own broth, with a ladleful mashed back in for body.
side
Moroccan aubergine and tomato cooked right down to a dark, garlicky jam. It is finished when a spoon leaves a clean trail.