Dhokla

A steamed chickpea-flour sponge, sour with lemon and aerated in the last ten seconds, then flooded with a sweet mustard-seed tempering.

Prep
20m
Cook
20m
Waiting
20m
Total
1h
Serves
6
Effort
Moderate
Scale
6
Units

Method

Tap a step number to mark it done. Tap an ingredient once for got it, twice for need it.

Dhokla — recipe grid
1 1/2 cups Whisk to a thick pouring batter and rest 20 minutes 5m Rest lets the gram flour hydrate, so the crumb is tender rather than chalky. Fold in the fruit salt and pour straight into an oiled tin 1m Fold six times, no more, then move. Every second of stirring costs you height. Steam 15 minutes, until a skewer comes out dry 15m Lid wrapped in a cloth so no condensation drips back and pockmarks the top. Pour the tempering over the cut squares and leave 10 minutes to drink it up 10m Cut first, temper second. The liquid needs the cut edges to get inside.
2 tbsp
1 cup
1 tbsp
1/4 tsp
2 tsp
1 tsp
1 tbsp
2 tbsp
1 1/2 tsp
3 tbsp Crackle the seeds in hot oil, then add water and sugar and boil 4m The sugar syrup is the point. Plain tempered oil slides off.
2 tsp
1 tbsp
3
12
a pinch
1/2 cup
2 tbsp
a handful
2 tbsp
Read left to right: ingredients merge into steps, and the rightmost cell is the last thing you do. Steps account for 35m of hands-on and cooking time.
  1. Whisk to a thick pouring batter and rest 20 minutes

    5m
    • gram flour 1 1/2 cups
    • fine semolina 2 tbsp
    • water 1 cup
    • ginger and green chilli paste 1 tbsp
    • ground turmeric 1/4 tsp
    • caster sugar 2 tsp
    • salt 1 tsp
    • lemon juice 1 tbsp
    • neutral oil 2 tbsp

    Rest lets the gram flour hydrate, so the crumb is tender rather than chalky.

  2. Fold in the fruit salt and pour straight into an oiled tin

    1m
    • from 1 Whisk to a thick pouring batter and rest 20 minutes
    • fruit salt 1 1/2 tsp

    Fold six times, no more, then move. Every second of stirring costs you height.

  3. Steam 15 minutes, until a skewer comes out dry

    15m
    • from 2 Fold in the fruit salt and pour straight into an oiled tin

    Lid wrapped in a cloth so no condensation drips back and pockmarks the top.

  4. Crackle the seeds in hot oil, then add water and sugar and boil

    4m
    • neutral oil 3 tbsp
    • mustard seeds 2 tsp
    • sesame seeds 1 tbsp
    • green chillies 3
    • curry leaves 12
    • asafoetida (optional) a pinch
    • water 1/2 cup
    • caster sugar 2 tbsp

    The sugar syrup is the point. Plain tempered oil slides off.

  5. Pour the tempering over the cut squares and leave 10 minutes to drink it up

    10m
    • from 3 Steam 15 minutes, until a skewer comes out dry
    • from 4 Crackle the seeds in hot oil, then add water and sugar and boil
    • coriander leaves a handful
    • fresh coconut (optional) 2 tbsp

    Cut first, temper second. The liquid needs the cut edges to get inside.

Why the fruit salt goes in last

Fruit salt is sodium bicarbonate packed with its own acid. Dry, nothing happens; wet, the two react and release carbon dioxide almost immediately. The batter has perhaps ninety seconds of useful lift before the bubbles find each other, merge and escape. Getting it into a hot steamer inside that window is the whole skill of dhokla. Steam then sets the protein around the foam at 100°C, locking the holes in place, which is why the surface stays pale and damp rather than crusting as it would in an oven.

Notes

  • Have the steamer at a rolling boil and the tin oiled before you open the fruit salt. There is no time to do it after.
  • Batter should ribbon off the whisk. Too thick and the gas cannot expand; too thin and the bubbles rise straight out.
  • A dense dhokla is still good the next day, fried in a little oil with mustard seeds.

Try butter, 30 minutes, braise, or an ingredient you need to use up.