Mayonnaise

One yolk holds a surprising amount of oil, as long as you add it slowly enough. Five minutes, and it fixes if it breaks.

Prep
10m
Cook
Total
10m
Serves
about 1 cup
Effort
Moderate
Scale
about 1 cup
Units

Method

Mayonnaise — recipe grid
1 1 Whisk together until smooth 2m Everything at room temperature. Cold yolk and cold oil emulsify badly. 2 Add the oil drop by drop at first, then in a thin stream 7m The first quarter is where it breaks. After that you can speed up considerably. 3 Season and loosen with a little warm water if too stiff 2m
1 tsp
1 tsp
1/4 tsp
1 cup
1 tsp
1 tsp
Read left to right: ingredients merge into steps, and the rightmost cell is the last thing you do. Steps account for 11m of hands-on and cooking time.

What is actually happening

Whisking shears the oil into droplets a few microns across. Lecithin from the yolk coats each droplet and stops them merging back. There is far more lecithin in one yolk than a cup of oil requires — the limit is not the yolk, it is how fast you add the oil. Add it faster than you can break it up and the droplets coalesce, which is what “splitting” is.

Fixing a split

Put a fresh teaspoon of mustard, or a new yolk, in a clean bowl and whisk the broken mixture into it drop by drop, exactly as if it were oil. It comes back every time. Nothing is wasted.

Notes

  • Not extra virgin olive oil. Emulsifying it releases bitter compounds.
  • Twist a damp cloth under the bowl so it stays put and you keep both hands free.
  • Keeps a week in the fridge, no longer — the yolk is raw.

Try butter, 30 minutes, braise, or an ingredient you need to use up.